Via Francigena: Dispatch #3

We find ourselves in the foothills of the Apennine mountains with some decisions to make.

We thought it would be the lack of lodging that forced us to jump forward, and that is still an issue, but the weather has turned out to be a huge factor, too. Initially we were looking at two or three days of rain, which we were willing to wait out, but that has now morphed into six days of rain, wind, and fog. This is the exact scenario we were hoping to avoid, but it was not to be.

The crossing of the Apennines is said to offer some of the most beautiful views along the VF as we walk into Tuscany. I am heartbroken that we did not have the opportunity to see them and to take on the challenge of a mountain crossing.

Steven is more philosophical about the whole thing, looking at our trip holistically. Our luck thus far with regard to weather has been incredible and there will be many more days ahead with memorable challenges and milestones. He’s right, of course.

A few days later…

We did indeed jump ahead and skipped over the mountains to Massa near the Mediterranean Sea. This knocked off about six stages that we will not walk, but our decision turned out to be a really good one.

We are now a few days into walking in Tuscany and the whole vibe of the Via has changed for us. Ostellos are open, the volunteers who run them speak at least some English so it is easier for us to call ahead and let them know we are coming. And though I don’t know what the weather is like over the Cisa Pass, at sea level it was rainy and cold, with the snow line at about 600 feet. We are glad we jumped.

Tuscany really is a beautiful region in Italy. The views go on forever and the skies are filled with drama. Tall, skinny trees, red tiled villas and churches are on every Tuscan hillside. It really is glorious.

This morning we left Lucca, and began our fourth week on the Via Francigena! We are a bit more weary, a lot more experienced in the ways of the Via and we still get up ready to walk again each morning.

I am happy to report that my blister has healed and that Steven’s plantar fasciitis has greatly improved with daily stretches.

As usual, I will let the photos fill in the gaps of our journey so far. See you next week!

Pavia to Corte Saint’Andrea

We took a train out of Pavia in order to miss a few kilometers of the industrial area. We got off at this stop right on the VF and continued our walk.
We walked along the levies past Medieval towns. I was pleasantly surprised to find this area to be so green! It was so much easier on the eyes than the dirty rice paddies.
Although we saw plenty of those, too.
This is the entrance to the little village where we stayed the night before crossing the Po River. The Ostello was fully stocked with food, and we fell in love with the sweet lady who runs the place. We lament that we did not get a photo of her.
Entrance to the Ostello.
These big old stone buildings are always freezing and are really hard to heat. I am always cold!
We had this unheated room to ourselves. There were four other pilgrims, Italians, who came late and left early, we never met them.

Corte Saint’Andrea to Piacenza

This was a big day and one we looked forward to. The crossing of the Po with ferryman Danilo Parisi is a milestone.
Worst downhill of the trip so far. I did not want my VF to end with me doing a header into the Po.
Danilo, the consummate storyteller.
There were a few of us on the crossing. We listened to the history of the crossing, then walked to Danilo’s house to get our stamp.
Waiting for the stamp!
Adding our information to Danilo’s book of pilgrims. He has four of those giant books! We are the 40th and 41st pilgrims of 2022.
So far, this is the largest stamp in our pilgrim passports!
Leaving Danilo’s place was lush and green.

Piacenza to Fiorenzuola

We took this bus to our next location. We didn’t have a clue how to get tickets, so we just got on the bus and hoped for the best. The bus driver told us we had to buy our tickets at the tabacchi (basically, a newsagent), so with us on board, he drives to the next stop and points Steven to the tabacchi across the street. Then he stayed right there, holding up about 15 cars of traffic, while Steven ran over and got our tickets. When we reached our destination, he waved us off with a “buon cammino!”
Daffodils and castles along the Via today.
Shorts and T-shirt weather!
We had a little puddle to cross today.

Fiorenzuola to Costamezzana

Leaving our hotel in Fidenza. First time we have had to put on our rain gear!
The landscape in the foothills of the Apennines was so lush and green. We just couldn’t see much of it in the fog and rain.
Walking into the little village of Costamezzana where we stayed the night with five other pilgrims!
Oliver runs a popular cafe along the VF.
I have become a big fan of pellet heaters! The five other pilgrims were upstairs, so I was in charge of the pellets! I kept those fires burning, let me tell you!

Costamezzana to Massa

View out the window of our Ostello in Massa.

Massa to Pietrasanta

Up, up, up! Literally right outside the Ostello door!
From sea level into the hillside. That water is the Mediterranean!
Roman arches galore on the VF!
With all the recent rain the streams are finally running. Like everywhere else, Tuscany really needs this rain.
The ever present sign. If we go too long without seeing this, or a familiar variation, we stop and pull out the phone to see where we are. It is not unusual for us to wander off-track.
I had to fashion a cover for my front pack. Steven said I looked like a bag lady.
We passed by a slew of these “stone cutter” yards that are filled with slabs of Carrera marble. There is so much of that stuff it is literally in the streets. They use it to make curbs on the sidewalks!
The beautiful marble church in Pietrasanta. The white building you can just barely see on the left is where we checked in. A little building out front is where are staying tonight.
The imposing gates to our Ostello in Pietrasanta.

Pietrasanta to Valpromaro

We continue to be very happy with our rain gear. Columbia jackets, rain pants and pack covers. When we walked the Camino Frances we sent our rain pants ahead, but I am super happy to have them now. On some days I wear them to stay warm after we arrive in a cold Ostello.
Steven cannot resist a reflection. 🙂
We always look for markers to help keep us in track.
Look at the snow in those hills above me. That is about 600 feet elevation. The Cisa Pass we skipped over is about 3500 feet! I have no idea what the weather was like up there, but we have no regrets about skipping it.
Ominous rain clouds chased us for a few days. We got caught up in some rainfalls, but the worst of it usually fell over night.
Overnight rain does leave behind some muddy paths.
We had a lot less road walking today, but some.
Our first community dinner!

Valpromaro to Lucca

The early morning sun caused steam to rise off the buildings.
I never tire of walking through villages which are especially quiet on Sunday mornings.
This was the most treacherous section yet! It was very steep and mostly slippery rocks! It took us forever to get through it!
Church in Lucca. We visited here last fall when we did a food and architectural tour.
One of the arches leading into the old town which is completely fortified. You can walk around the old town along the walls.
The door to our Ostello.

Finally, Steven has been documenting parts of our trip in painting and sketching on his iPhone. This is a scene from early on in our adventures. If you would like to see more, you can keep up with what he’s doing by following his Visual Art page here.

Next up: more VF adventures!

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34 Comments

    1. 2chouters

      Lol, I try to get him to walk in front but he likes to keep an eye on me. Actually, he likes to stop and take photos. But I’ll see what I can do for the next post! 🙂

    1. 2chouters

      It was an easy decision to make, but still with a few regrets. It is really beautiful up in those mountains. The dry rice paddies, not so much!

  7. joyce e densmore-thomas

    What an adventure! I applaud your “stick with it ness”! And gumption. And joy in all of the big and little delights. And Steven, that painting is beautiful. The shadows and lighting are amazing. Plus the texture. Absolutely stunning.

    1. 2chouters

      Thanks for your kind words of support! So far we are really enjoying each day, but we get weary. Steven is loving all the photo opportunities which inspires him to draw!

    1. 2chouters

      I loved my first Oboz instantly, but this second pair took some getting used to. I like them now. When we are done, I am getting rid of all of them so I won’t be tempted to do this insanity again!

  10. Ingrid

    Delighted you guys have improved your feet issues, that must be a relief. An amazing feat to keep going, i think i would have given up after day 1! Stevens photos are again fantastic and looking forward to reading the next episode already

  13. Jodee Gravel

    Such an incredible variety of views and trails and weather! I’m sure making the jump over the snowy mountains was the smart choice – looks like much of it would have been impassable. Love all the arches and village streets. I can’t fathom four weeks of walking those distances, you two are amazing. Certainly grateful for your sharing all the amazing sights and experiences though :-)))

    1. 2chouters

      I think we are equally amazed at what our bodies can do. I’m not sure, if we hadn’t done this before, we would have imagined walking these distances every single day 🙂

  14. Barbara Lübeck-Irani

    8 more days and you made it. Already, dear Linda and Steven, congratulations to the long way up to this point.
    A picture shows the mud after a rainy night! At the latest then I would have gone home!!
    I wish you good weather for the little rest of the pilgrimage and happy arrival.
    Many greetings to you. Barbara

    1. 2chouters

      Thank you Barbara. I think we missed your post originally but good weather was on our side for most of this trip so we were very lucky. Always good to hear from you.

  15. Ron Corbin

    Hi Guys we were just in aire in Sens. We were talking about you guys spending weeks there. We can’t imagine locking down like that and will always admire you. You should know that your clothes line is still standing and in good shape and being used by other visitors.

    1. 2chouters

      Now you have just made my day! How happy am I to learn Roman Polanski is still out there, doing his thing! It’s like we made a contribution to the city! I have thought about you two, wondering if you’d be back this year to resume your traveling! And here you are! What are your plans? Safe Travels!

    1. 2chouters

      Yes, we are working on a new post, it will be up in a couple of days! We have not take a rest day so it has been difficult to keep up with posts. But more coming, thank you for checking in on us!

  17. Melissa A Keith

    Yay!! Sounds like you’ve been very busy!!!! I have a friend who just left Lucca yesterday, so I get to watch you both walk and explore. Buen Camino.

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