Via Francigena: Dispatch #2

This week we finally found our pilgrim groove, staying in hostels, finally getting comfy with our packs and generally being more efficient on the trail. And then everything came to a screeching halt when I developed blister.

I had a configuration of boot inserts that felt good to me and they worked as long as I taped the sensitive areas of my feet. But the first day I decided it was too much trouble to tape, I got this blister one morning before we even got out of town.

The good news is that the blister is not painful and doesn’t stop me from walking now. The bad news is it really needs a couple of days to heal so that it doesn’t get worse and become a real issue. So we are taking a couple of days off in Pavia, one of which was planned, the second one was not.

We are currently in the Po Valley which is where Italy grows its famous Arborio rice. The paddies are not yet planted or flooded, so we are just literally walking through flat dirt fields. Tractors are preparing for planting so there is a lot of dirt being kicked up. If ever there is a time when we are okay with jumping ahead, this is it.

Aside from the blister we are struggling with logistics. We like to think of ourselves as adventurous, but we like to be in control of as much as possible so that we feel confident going forward. Some days that confidence is nowhere to be found and we both can be slightly out of sorts.

We didn’t realize it at the time when we walked the Camino Frances in 2019, that it was all but laid out for us. There is so much infrastructure that you literally get up and walk, then stop when you are tired. There was not really a lot of logistics to plan.

The VF is completely different and requires constant planning and forethought, research, calling and emails, most of which go unanswered. When we haven’t done that, or gotten responses and confirmations, we start to feel a little less in control.

There is a level of “the Camino provides”, because it certainly does. We have been very fortunate to find wonderful pilgrim accommodations thus far, and we hope that will continue into the future. Our food situation leaves a lot to be desired, but we are working on that.

As much as we need the downtime for healing, planning and even communicating with all of you, these are melancholy days. A body in motion wants to stay in motion. We want to walk, but will wait another day.

Tomorrow we will take the train to our next stop and then resume walking. Week three promises some challenges as we are expecting a few rain days. Monday we cross the Po River and head toward the Apennine Mountains. See you then!

Ivrea – Cavaglià

Early morning departure from the Canoe Club in Ivrea.
Beautiful river walk in Ivrea.
Pilgrim Office in Ivrea. We got a stamp for our passports and info on accommodations further ahead.
This day’s walk included a little bit of everything. Signage was great but we still got off track a couple of times and found ourselves walking on the highway. That is not much fun.
Another walk through a village. We don’t even know the names of half the places we go through.
We were walking on a busy road, starving and ready to eat lunch. We thought we’d never find a place to stop, but then we saw this. A resting place for pilgrims. The Camino provides, indeed.
Reflection of two pilgrims.
More village.
Another beautiful church.
Walking high above Lake Viverone.
We walked 26 kilometers this day, well into the late hours of daylight. Our longest day yet.
After such a long walk, we basically slept in a room provided by the town. The town bedroom, as it were. We had it to ourselves. Sparse, but perfectly comfy. Hot shower!

Cavaglià – Santhia

Kicking up the dirt! Soon these fields will be flooded and be rice paddies.
These canals are used to flood miles of paddies. In the summer the paddies are steamy and humid, with loads frogs, snakes, birds and of bugs.
Our wonderful accommodations in Santhia. This is what it looks like after we spread out. I actually hand washed our clothes today.
That little archway leads to our Ostello in Santhia, which is the third floor. Amazing place! Beautiful light when we left the next morning.

Robbio – Mortara

Empty fields and canals. There is actually a photo online taken from high above as the fields are flooded. It is an interesting process.
We try to stay out of the dirt but at the end of the day we are pretty dusty. The first time I thought I was dusty, it turned out to be bread flour. Lol.
We know of two pilgrims ahead of us, Ivana and Mauricio. Maybe these are their tracks in the dry dirt. They are about a day ahead. (Update: the newer tracks belong to a pilgrim named Peter!)
On this day we stayed at a monastery. We thought this was it and I was so excited because it looks so gorgeous!
But as it turns out, we got sent to the wrong place by Google Maps, a cemetery instead of the monastery. It was a huge place! Steven said it was probably a good thing we didn’t find an office to go into and ask for two spaces for the night!
We asked this guy, Salvatore, who was at the cemetery, if he could help us with directions. He told us but was afraid we might get lost again, so he waited for us outside the cemetery and drove us to the monastery! How sweet!
The monastery chapel, we slept right outside in a large community room.
Our room at the monastery.
The sun was already up by our early morning departure time. This Sunday is Daylight Savings Time in Europe and we will lose an hour.

Mortara – Garlasco

Our new pilgrim friend, Peter, who also stayed at the monastery last night. He actually started his walk at the top of the Alps and snow-shoe’d down! Crazy!
Early morning sunlight.
El Diablo. This is the least offensive photo I have of my blister. It is covered with Compeed and tape.
Walking into Tromello. We were greeted by an elderly man on a bike who gave us pins and a pilgrim certificate. So sweet!
Our pilgrim certificates from Tromello, in Latin.
Just the sight of water is a boost to our energy levels and the landscape doesn’t seem too bleak.
This is where we stayed in Garlasco.
We signed the “Via Francigena” wall. The owner’s sister did all of our laundry! The next morning the owner drove us 20 kilometers to Pavia.

Pavia

The church in Pavia is a stunner, made from brick! The university here is the third oldest in all of Europe.
Our home for two days in Pavia, complete with kitchenette!

Up next: who knows?

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20 Comments

  1. Jim and Barb

    As interesting as your hike is, I find each place you stay just as interesting. It would be weird to be staying in a large open room with a lot of beds like that one place. Nice you had it to yourselves!

  2. Liz

    As always, wonderful photos! Such a shame about your blister – hope it heals quickly. Such interesting adventures! You two are certainly intrepid travelers.

  4. Rambling RV Rat

    Wow, that blister is huge! Hope you are on the mend! Such awesome places and spectacular photos by Steven. Thpugh I love what you guys are doing abroad, I am quite certain I could not do it. I am not as adaptable nor well traveled as you are. So, I thank you for documenting your unique adventures and taking me along! Sue

    1. 2chouters

      Sue, travel in Europe, whether by foot or by motorhome is a different experience, for sure. It takes a lot more time and energy to figure out logistics. And just when you think you get a handle on things, you cross a border and it all changes. But it is these challenges we enjoy, it keeps us engaged and busy! So glad you are along for our walk in the VF, good to hear from you!

  5. Steve Colibaba

    You guys are a glutton for punishment but luckily for us we get to experience these places thru your eyes in comfort. Safe travels as you continue to hoof it!

  7. David Bradford

    Nothing but admiration for you guys. Your very readable adventures have taken you on many a road less travelled, but taking it slow you are seeing/experiencing so much more than us lazy folks in our comfortable motorhomes. Good on ya…

  8. Laurel

    I love the quaint villages. And I love walking. But from your photos and your tales, it’s obviously not all idyllic strolling through beautiful villages. Kind of like life, huh? I hope your blister heals quickly and that you find some good food to sustain you in your journey.

    1. 2chouters

      All is good with our feet, thankfully! And I never dreamed that endless pasta would become so undesirable, but here we are. My Queendom for a roasted chicken!

  10. Jodee Gravel

    I was thinking this walk is very different from the first, less signage, no other pilgrams, less available information. But you’re making the best of it as always and seeing some incredible sights along the way. Your overnights are each a unique experience and I’m delighted you’re meeting such lovely people. I’m also glad you’re being smart about your healing and taking the time you need. Like tires on the rig, keeping those feet in good shape is critical :-)) Love that header pic and the reflected pilgrims :-)))

    1. 2chouters

      Overall, it was a completely different experience from the Camino in Spain. Challenging in many ways with lack of signage (particularly at the beginning) and also doing the entire thing by ourselves mostly. We only met a handful of other pilgrims along the way. Still, it made this adventure unique, like you say.

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