We arrived at our Airbnb in Agliana just north of Florence with every intention of doing nothing but taking it easy. It was good in theory, but in reality, it was a ridiculous plan. You don’t arrive in the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, where delicious food and wines are produced in the verdant fields, where the works of the masters rest in nearby museums, and the golden colors of fall seep through villages and across the countryside just so you can sit on your butt.
We don’t particularly like to move out of Bijou, but when we do, we like to keep her close by. In this case, she was right outside, so it was easy to just slowly settle in and retrieve things as we needed them. It took us about ten days to feel comfortable in our new surroundings and for the place to feel like home.
The farmhouse was quite large, with two good-sized bedrooms and two bathrooms. We had a living room with two sofas, which is where we spent most of our time when we weren’t in the kitchen. Our kitchen had a table and chairs, a fireplace, which we never used, and all the accoutrements necessary to turn out a nice meal.
Overall we really enjoyed our farmhouse, but there were two things that really bugged us (no pun intended). First, Tuscany is buggy, and there were no screens on the doors or windows downstairs, so we could not open the place up and enjoy a breeze through the house. Steven is highly sensitive to mosquitos and they were so prevalent he was slightly traumatized. Before coming to bed he would do a sweep through the house to kill whatever bugs he could find. If he missed one, it inevitably found him during the night, which would wake him up and start him on another bug hunt, which would wake me up. So there were a lot of nights where we didn’t sleep very well. And don’t even start me on the bugs and spiders that would get on our clothes as they hung on the line outside. Did you know there are jumping spiders in Italy?
The second issue we had, and this has been true of nearly every Airbnb we have ever stayed in, is poor lighting. I am particularly sensitive to overhead lighting, especially if it is a bright white LED light. I prefer a warm colored light at eye level, such as a table lamp, or an under cab light in the kitchen. We typically bring lamps from the bedroom and set them up around the areas where we spend the most time, but the farmhouse was typical of European homes where there are few electrical outlets and none of them were where they needed to be. The lighting in our kitchen was abysmal, but we just dealt with it.
One of the first things that we had to do while we were at the farmhouse was to renew our American passports, which expire in July next year. Most countries require that you have at least six months validity on your passport in order to enter. Since we move around so much, it would be nearly impossible to get them renewed any other time.
Steven did all the research and found that we could turn in all our paperwork at the American Consulate in Florence. First, though, we needed photos. We would take them with his iPhone, but we had to have a white background. So while we were at the sosta in Parma, we saw a clean, white motorhome without a bike rack. We asked if we could use the back of their rig as the background for our passport photos and they agreed. It was a sunny day and now I am squinting in my passport photo. Plus, I hadn’t had a haircut in five months. Perfect.
We made appointments online to turn in our paperwork but we had to make them on two separate days. For our first trip into Florence, Steven had his appointment while I stood outside and waited a few hundred yards away. The next day it was my turn and we did everything again. There is nothing welcoming about an American embassy or consulate, they are all business. They want you in and out as fast as possible. But none of that really mattered because we got done what we needed to do. Eight days later we had new passports. Can you believe that? Eight days! They may not be friendly, but at least they are efficient!
All in all we made five trips into Florence during our stay at the farmhouse and Steven went once on his own. He wanted to spend some extra time in the Uffizi Gallery focusing on a few, specific paintings. The Uffizi is one of my favorite museums in Europe. When I studied Renaissance art history at my high school in Switzerland, we could hop on a train and visit Florence and see much of what we were studying in person. It was wonderful. But the sheer volume of paintings and sculptures is overwhelming. After the thousandth “Madonna and Child” we started getting a little punchy. Before long our commentary turned a bit sarcastic, and that was our clue that it was time to go. You really need to make several trips to get a good appreciation for what is on offer.
In addition to Florence we also made day trips to Lucca and Siena, two of the most popular towns in Tuscany. In Lucca we took a food tour, which was delicious. In Siena, we had great food, but it was the company that we enjoyed the most.
About a year ago Steven, curious soul that he is, came across the blog of English novelist Maggie Barrett and was immediately drawn in. Before long they began corresponding. Then one day in a blog post she mentioned her husband Joel and included a photo. Steven recognized him immediately as Joel Meyerowitz, one of the most famous and influential American photographers of our time.
Maggie and Joel live outside Siena, so we arranged to meet them for lunch while we were visiting the city. We met up at Osteria le Logge, a restaurant they have been going to for years. We ordered individual and shared courses from each of the sections, starters, first courses, mains and a delicious selection of desserts which we enjoyed while barely slowing the conversation. We learned about their life in Tuscany and they learned about our life on the road. To say they are interesting people is putting it mildly, they are lots of fun to yak with.
I did not get a single photo of our food, which was intentional on my part, but rest assured it was delicious. Steven and I shared chicken liver paté, tagliatelle with Tuscan ragú, and we all four had beef cheeks for our main course. My gosh, it was melt in your mouth delicious! The only dessert I recall was something about hazelnuts and ice cream and it was yummy. I can’t remember because the menu was in Italian and even then the descriptions don’t always match what comes out on your plate. It was fancy food, y’all! 🙂
It was well after dark when Steven and I arrived back in Agliana after our wonderful day in Siena. The farmhouse was about 1.7 kilometers from the train station and there was no sidewalk or path along the very busy road we had to walk to get home. But this was probably our 12th time walking to or from the station, so we knew all the places to hop out of the way of oncoming cars and so made it home alive.
We did manage a few bike rides locally, mostly to the Coop grocery store. I went one day on my own to get a cut and color, then pick up a few items at the store. I packed everything onto my bike and headed home. Just as I rounded the corner leaving the parking lot I took a tumble! It was the first time I had done this while riding my bike and it was a bit of a shocker to suddenly find myself sprawled out on the ground. I was fine and the groceries seemed fine so I dusted myself off and made my way home. It was later the next day that I realized my sunglasses were missing. These were the new prescription ones we got last year while in Croatia and I just loved them. They weren’t cheap either and it really upset me that I lost them. I think they must have fallen out of my backpack, which I was wearing when I tumbled off my bike. I rode back to see if I could find them, but no joy. I checked with lost and found every time we were back at the store, but no one had turned them in. I am still very sad about losing them, but there’s nothing I can do about it. Bummer.
Prior to arriving in Agliana we had found a repair shop nearby that we had contacted to do some minor work on Bijou. Long stays are the best time to get little stuff taken care of and from all the reviews online, this guy Moreno was a wizard at repairs. We were delayed a bit due to the language barrier, but once we made contact, Google Translate became our common language. We arrived with a list of repairs and carefully went over each one. We left Bijou in what we hoped was Moreno’s capable hands, and before we even reached the train station we had a detailed estimate via email. A few days later when we returned to get her, every single item had been taken care of and at a very fair price. What a great experience!
With Bijou back at the farmhouse we slowly began the process of packing up for our departure. First, though, we gave her a deep clean and a reorganization before moving back in. It is always so nice to do this because everything has a place. Over time, as we travel, things get stuffed away. Then we tear the place apart looking for something, and then it all gets stuffed again. So a good reorg is vital to keep things ship shape as we travel.
When it was time for us to leave, we thought about finding a new place and staying still even longer, but in the end we decided we were ready to travel. We did a bit of planning and on departure day, we set our sights on Pisa. More on that in a future post.
Finally, we recognize that what is missing from this blog post are tons of wonderful photos Steven took of our trips to gorgeous Tuscan cities. Believe me when I say that if we had included them here, you’d be reading this post into next week. So we decided now that you have the narrative of our stay in Tuscany, over the next couple of weeks we will publish the photos to show you the gorgeous art, architecture, street scenes, food and more of Florence, Lucca, Siena and Pisa. We promise you won’t have to wait long.
In the meantime, Steven is continuing to create new artwork. He has admired artist Andrew Wyeth for many years and he has also been a big influence in Steven’s photography. With that in mind, he took pencil to paper and drew the man. If you would like to keep up with Steven’s artwork, you can follow him on his Visual Art Facebook Page here.
UP NEXT: Beautiful Florence
I do so love reading your blogs and following your travels. Thanks for sharing!
We are so glad to have you along for the journey! Thanks for taking time to comment!
Another great post, funny too, but that picture certainly looks like Keannu. I’m taking notes since I’d like to stay in/near Florence in the future. So far it’s just been a cruise port destination. Did not know about the bugs !! No one mentions them and like Steven I’m a bug magnet. Re your glasses, could you get another pair from Croatia if they have your prescription? It is a bummer but you’ll seem to handle the downs quite well. Happy travels.
I wish I had that prescription from Croatia, but it was just done in the shop, not by a doctor. I guess I’ll bread down and get another pair, but it makes me mad! 🙂
Oh my!!! What a lovely blog! So good to know u r both well and having great time, even w/ sad sunglass loss…. Food looks yummo and the light/color IS beautiful ❤️
Adventure abounds!!
I am still mourning the loss of my sunglasses because I am being stubborn in not wanting to replace them. They were so expensive! We have thus far eaten our way across Italy and it has been glorious! I even made my own focaccia, which I will tell you about in a future post!
Wonderful photos! Always happy to read your blog, and it bring back Tuscan memories. Would love to see you travel down to souther Tuscan, to the val d’orcia, which I love so much and have stayed in 5 different times, and La Face and other places. Any chance?
Wherever you go, I learn something. So thank you for such lovely trips!
We didn’t make it to Val d’Orcia on this trip, but we will be back to Tuscany in the spring. Watch this space. 🙂
Sorry, I misspelled La Foce, or spell check did. Worth looking into or at least stopping at the garden!! Have you read about Iris Origo??
Damn spellcheck! 🙂 I will endeavor to read up on the garden before we make our way there. Thanks for the info!
Beautiful pictures!
Thanks, Betsy! Hope all is well with you guys!
Oh my again & I’ve said it all before,just terrific. Besides the stunning buildings,the descriptions & pics of the food- end up hungry & probably put on unnecessary inches although have learned so much – thank you.
Oh, I hear you. I have to eat a hearty breakfast before traveling into Florence because – get this – they eat pizza for breakfast!!! OMG, it is so wonderful but I just can’t because then I’d be carbing up all day long!! On the other hand, when in Rome… or Florence, as the case may be. 🙂
Thanks so much for sharing your Tuscany adventure. Art, food, scenery, new (famous) friends, what more can you ask for? Maybe no bugs? Seems so odd that something so simple as window screens aren’t used when bugs are clearly a problem. Looking forward to seeing all Stephen’s photos. Reading your blog is such a great break from coming to grips with old man winter here in the Midwest.
I’m so glad you enjoyed the post and that you got a slight respite from the wintery scenes outside. Our weather when we arrived in Tuscany was a bit too warm for our liking, thus the bugs. Over time the mosquitos lessened, but never fully disappeared. Last week we arrived in Rome to 77 degrees. Crazy, huh?!!
Thank you for this very interesting post from Tuscany! I enjoy very much reading about your whereabouts, visits, meals, discoveries … and sorry about your mishap (and loosing your sunglasses). Looking forward to keep following your trip all over Europe!
Thank you for your kind words and for letting us know you enjoyed the post. We are happy to have you along on our journey. I am still upset about my sunglasses, but haven’t yet replaced them. Instead I bought a clip on set of lenses for use through the many tunnels, but I don’t care for them. GRRRRR!
First time commenting. Lovely post Lovely art by your husband
Welcome, Kathryn! Thank you for taking time to comment. It is always nice to hear from our readers that they have enjoyed a post.
Hope I have the correct fb page, it shows willie nelson?
Yes, that is the correct FB page! It is Visual Art by Steven Dempsey, and the photo is Steven’s drawing of Willie Nelson!
Lovely post/commentary and really enjoyed seeing Florence again through your marvelous photos. Your photos brought back so many wonderful memories of our time there. Thank you.
Wonderful! I am so glad you enjoyed the post and that the photos brought back lovely memories for you. We appreciate that you took the time to let us know.
Loving the post. Keep them coming especially with Stevens photo’s!!
Thanks! I was just thinking about you guys and our time in Croatia last year. Such a beautiful place!
Thank you for another great post and the link to another great blogger.
Thanks for taking time to comment, I’m glad you enjoyed the post!
Your blog is my favorite blog of all time! I found you through the NYT Cooking Community, which I no longer subscribe to so I’m glad I am following your blog. Your writing is terrific (I especially enjoyed the comments about the babies in the paintings and the guy who looks just like Keanu Reaves!), and the photography is stunning. We RV in the US, but not full-time, so I’m living vicariously through you. LOVE IT!
OMG, Carmela, you made me squeal! What a sweet comment, thank you so much! I am still with the NYT group, or the NTNYT group as it is called these days, but I don’t participate much. So I am so glad you found us and are still along for the ride!
Nice Haircut!
The dessert: ·Crema di gianduia – cannoli farciti di crema ai pinoli salati – gelato alla nocciola
So it’s a bowlful of pan’d’espanya ( a very, very light sponge cake) with a scoop of hazelnut cream,
little cannoli filled with salted pine nut cream and a scoop of hazelnut ice cream. Totally evil.
It was great to see you.
Best, Maggie and Joel
Normally I would try to deconstruct that dessert so I could try my hand at making it, but I think I’ll just let this one linger in my memory! What a great time we had with you and Joel, really a highlight of our visit to Tuscany. We so enjoyed your company. When we got home, I went on a rampage to find the milk frother and guess what? It was in that place where Steven had said to me, “Don’t bother looking there, I have checked it six times already!” That should have been my first clue… 🙂
Oh how I would love to visit Tuscany! Thanks for sharing so beautifully!
Our pleasure, June! It has been a beautiful place for us to slow down and see what there is to see!
This post brings back fond memories of the ten day quick tour of Italy my husband and I did three years ago, before we did a transatlantic cruise from Rome back to Ft Lauderdale. We loved that area of Italy and now of course want to return. It’s on our ever growing bucket list!
Have you ever noticed that Bucket Lists always seem to fill up and never empty? We have been at this full-time travel for over seven years and we still have more places left to see than time left to see them. Put Florence at the top, with Steven and I agree it is one of our favorites!
Just beautiful!!
I agree! And just wait, there is so much more to come!
just was telling my husband today we will probably never get to Europe, but following your blogs makes me feel a little bit closer!!
I am so glad we are able to give you a little taste of Europe through our stories and photos. Thanks for following along and taking time to comment!
Just delightful, as always. And truthful. Your farmhouse stay in Tuscany is on my dream list, although I never envisioned the mosquitoes, LOL. I’m right now trying to plan our summer adventure in Michigan so that we can evade black fly/mosquito season. Wish me luck.
How cool that you met up with Maggie and Joel. I just signed up for her blog. She is such a fabulous writer! Loved all of your colorful photos of the architecture, the food, and the landscape. Oh, and we have pandemic passport photos, too, haha!
Last time we were in Michigan we went to a little lake, I forget where, to have a picnic. As we got close to the water we got swarmed by black flies! We made a beeline back to Toadiehopper and many of them got inside with us. For some reason, as we flailed our arms we managed to get avocado all over Toadie’s ceiling! LOL, there is still some evidence of that experience, but we tried to get it all off. Our picnic was a complete disaster, so yeah, good luck! That said, Michigan is one of our favorite places!
I have been enjoying your blogs for the past 6 months or so and now want to go back to the beginning of your travels! The combination of your blog with Steven’s photos and drawings is just amazing. Am glad that Michigan is one of your favorite places (we live in Michigan), but am guessing if you were swarmed by black flies that you were in the Upper Peninsula, because that is one of the many things they are famous for lol!
Was amazed that you received your passports so fast – we renewed ours last August and just got them back a few weeks ago. Actually, that was well within the time frame they told us when we renewed.
And, as far as one of the paintings, I thought also that it was Keanau Reeves even before reading your caption –
You and Steven are truly “living the dream” – keep enjoying your travels!
Kathy thank you so much for taking time to respond! Wow, going back to the beginning is quite the commitment! I know because I have done it with a couple of blogs myself. I hope I haven’t been too inconsistent in my writings, lol!
We do love Michigan, and that black fly episode happened in Petoskey! It was awful! But it hasn’t lessened our enjoyment of the state and we hope one day to get back there one day!
How did I get so far behind 🙁 Loving getting started on your time in Italy – it’s such a “goldenly” beautiful place. What a wonderful opportunity to visit with Steve’s author and artist peeps – the meal sounds heavenly. I think you look younger every post!
You are right, Jodee, Italy is golden! We have a friend who studied faux finishing in Italy and she did all of our baby nurseries. For one of my friends she chose a pumpkin color, one that played a minor role in the fabric the Mom-to-be had chosen. At first, we were like, whaaaat? But then it grew on us and after a while we realized how artistic and forward-thinking it was. 🙂 We miss you guys, hope all is well!