Camino Portuguese

With joy in my heart and a Compostela in my pocket, I have returned home from my adventure on the Camino Portuguese. It was an amazing experience and, in many ways, so much more enjoyable than I could have ever predicted.

There were so many contributing factors, the scenery along our route, the food and the people we met along the way all contributed to my experience. But hands down, the best part of my Camino was our group, who we christened “4 Cheeky Chicas”. Smart, funny and like-minded, we came together quickly, prompting another pilgrim to comment, “You’ve clearly been friends for a long time.”, when in fact, none of us knew each other well and some of us met for the first time in Porto!

I have always been a little hesitant to consider walking with others just because it adds an additional layer of, I don’t know…stuff…personalities…complexities… that I wasn’t willing to take on. But since I really had no choice other than to walk alone, with Steven out of commission due to plantar fasciitis, you can imagine how much of a relief it was to know that our group was going to get along just fine. It made it so easy to focus on all the other things that really matter, like planning, packing, our route, food, accommodations, foot care, laundry and all those things that become all-encompassing on a pilgrimage.

In the beginning, the most difficult question for us to answer was “Where are you from?”, because combined we are a mishmash of nationalities and residencies. It didn’t take long to distill our answer down to a quick one, pointing from one to the next: “American-Irish, living in Budapest (Erin), Danish-American living in France (Nina), English-American, living in Spain (Kate) and, American, traveling full time in Europe in a motorhome, (me). Whew.

Day one, we started out so optimistically, but we barely got down the street before we had to change into our rain gear! Still, we were so excited!

Our departure day out of Porto was a real soaker, but the following days along the Atlantic coast were stunning. We walked on a boardwalk, which was so soft on our feet. There were a few breaks where we walked in the sand, but not many. On day three we left the Coastal route by taxi (to avoid a particularly busy and dangerous walking section right next to the highway) and took a 15-minute ride to the town of Rates on the Central Route. We would stay on this route for the next nine days before making our way to the Spiritual Variant and then into Santiago de Compostela three days later.

We thought the rain would pass, but it lasted all day long! Luckily, we walked just under 16k, so not too bad. Here we are by the river in Porto, which we would follow to the Atlantic Ocean.

Rather than recount each day, I thought I’d address some of the most asked questions I get, plus share a few photos. Okay, more than a few, but I will try not to overwhelm you. If you’re left wanting more photos, at the end of this post there is a link to a video slide show that represents our entire journey.

What’s in my backpack?

All our gear, ready to go in the morning! Everyone, except me, used water bladders. I just carried water bottles that I refilled, or bought new.

I have to brag on myself in the packing category because I nailed it on this trip. And by that I mean my pack felt perfect and I never felt any physical pain due to the weight of it. I think I walked out the door at 14 lbs., not including water. Did I still bring some crap I didn’t need, or even use? Yes. I didn’t pack too many fears, but I just can’t seem to get away from packing a few “just in case” items. That said, I have come a long way from the days with young children when I packed enough stuff to feed four and take care of everything just short of a severed limb. You should have seen my kids’ diaper bag!

I had a few luxury items this time, one of which was my fuzzy pyjama pants. Eight ounces is a lot to give to a luxury item, but OMG, I loved having them! Other than that, I had three sets of clothes, two for walking, one for evening. Four undies, two pairs of merino wool socks, three pairs of Injinji toe socks. Also, my beloved shower dress, a towel which is the size of a horse blanket 🙄, my Sea-To-Summit Sleep sack, a shower kit and a pair of flip flops. I definitely need to up my game regarding after-hiking footwear.

One thing I had not given much thought to was my rain gear. My system of a Columbia rain jacket, rain pants when needed, buff, ballcap and a pack cover had always been my go-to and I loved it. But it became clear on our first day walking out of Porto that my rain gear had deteriorated and was now inadequate. I had tried to re-waterproof it before I left for Porto, but it clearly didn’t work because I was wet through and through. Fortunately, there was no wind and the temps were cool, but not cold, so I survived. A day or two later I bought a cheapie poncho which ultimately provided a little help, but really not much, as it was not designed to cover my pack. You can bet that an upgraded rain system is at the top of my shopping list in the months to come!

What even is going on here??? As you can see, that cheapie poncho offered me little protection. And Giovanni, my 7-liter military-grade waist pack, looks even more gigantic covered with a trash bag. I need to work on this system, clearly, but I am not sold on the Quasimodo look.

What did we eat, and did I lose weight?

Let’s face it, food is one of the reasons we walk. There is no other time in daily life when I can stuff my face with any food I desire, as much as I want, without consequence. And by consequence I mean weight gain. We ate so much food, even I am shocked. Pastel de nata, that famous Portuguese egg custard pastry? Yes, please! Two for now and one for later! Second breakfast? Sure, why not! Third breakfast? Go ahead, twist my arm! French fries for the table? Hell, yeah! At one restaurant the server kindly informed us we had ordered too much food. Apparently the extra French fries were a bridge too far since they were already included in the three mains we had ordered (to follow our tapas…) There did come a day when we started to miss vegetables, but we toughed it out.

The Portuguese know how to make good custard pastries and we were on a mission to find the best ones. I think Kate tried to keep count of how many we ate each day, but I’m not sure she could keep up.
Nina and I shared this dish, called Bacalao, which is salted cod. It is a very popular dish in Portugal.
Our first gelato! This was probably the best we had on our whole trip, on our first night, which also happened to be Erin’s birthday. The rain had moved on and we enjoyed a gorgeous sunset as we ate our treats sitting on the seawall.
I have to say this lunch was among our favorites. Epic, right? I mean, bread, rice and potatoes, what’s not to love? And it was so tasty!
This was our typical celebration each day after our walk.
On this stop, second breakfast, I didn’t order anything. In fact, only two of us ordered coffee, and no one ordered anything to eat. But free food is typical in Spain and this entire plate full of four different types of cake was handed to us with the coffees. It was all delicious!
Toasties made with ham and cheese, another typical breakfast.
“Menu del dia”, or menu of the day, also known as a Pilgrim’s meal. Cheap, delicious and filling, it provided everything we needed. On this trip, I had zero paella, thankfully. I am still not over all the paella I had to eat on the Camino Frances.
Another item on the “Menu del dia”.
And while Kate enjoyed her fish, the rest of us had pork medallions in a mushroom sauce. All the food here was delicious, and since it was on the Menu of the Day, it was very inexpensive, too! We did not order fries for the table, but we should have. These were the best we had on the whole trip!
Not every breakfast was pastries. This was my second breakfast one morning!
We were lucky enough to happen upon a cafe where the owner made his Spanish tortilla from scratch! My gosh, they are so delicious, but it is really rare to get them like this.

For our celebratory dinner in Santiago, we had made reservations at a nice restaurant famous for its tapas and beef steak. I warned everyone before we arrived that I planned to eat the biggest steak on the menu and that they should not be shocked at the amount of meat I can put away. As is typical for me on a Camino, I felt protein-starved. Steven and I shared a one kilogram ribeye, yep, that’s 2.2 pounds of beef and it was delicious. I have zero regrets. Everyone else also had a big steak, except Kate, who had fish.

You know, it looks big, but by the time we cut off the fat and the bone, it was a reasonable amount. 🙂

In the end, I did not lose a single pound on this Camino, nor did I gain any. I consider that a win. Now the trick is not to give in to the continuing hunger. Just because I have stopped walking does not mean the hiker hunger has gone away. One good thing in my favor is that I came home to an empty fridge. Also, I came home sick, as most of us had caught a cold in the last day or so. I have spent my first days at home sleeping nearly 16 hours a day.

Where did you sleep?

The choice of lodging along the Camino Portuguese ranges from municipal albergues (hostels) to boutique hotels and private apartments. In all categories I found the quality of accommodations along the CP to be superior to the other caminos I have done. Maybe upgrades were made after Covid, but most seemed newer, with upgraded furnishings, more comfortable and with better amenities. My litmus test, of course, is whether or not there is sufficient hot water for all pilgrims and if there is a hairdryer available. Portugal never let us down. Spain was a different story, but only in the hairdryer category. Laundry facilities were also nice to have and we never had an issue, something was always available every day or two. After a long day of sweaty walking, we combined all our laundry into one load and got it done. I’ve said this before, but we carry so few things with us, that having everything clean is the best feeling ever! That, and French fries for the table. That feels good, too.

Along our Camino we stayed in all kinds of places, including dormitory-type albergues where many people sleep in bunk beds all in the same large room. Because we were a group, sometimes we would get a private room. Two places stood out as memorable, first, Casa Ana in Barcelos and second, Casa Fernanda, somewhere out in the Portuguese countryside. Casa Ana was a boutique hotel and it was as lovely as it sounds. Right outside was a beautiful little square with a couple of restaurants serving food and drinks. The sun was shining and it was just a glorious day. Of course, I would be remiss if I didn’t tell you that I had my worst meal in Barcelos. It was a hamburger at a swanky little place just down from our hotel and it was awful. It didn’t even come with French fries!

Top left was the worst of the trip. The bed was actually comfy, but three of us had top bunks and they were death traps! There was nothing to hang on to when climbing up and we very nearly could not get up there. I practiced over and over until I got all the hand movement perfect, because there was no way I was going to end my Camino falling off a bed ladder! The rest of the photos are various rooms we stayed in. Notice on the bottom right there are no top bunks!! This made us very happy!
Our lovely room and the view below at the boutique guest house, Casa Ana.
Relaxing by the pool and on the porch at our place in Rubiães. We had our biggest climb thus far on this day and we were knackered!

Casa Fernanda is in a category all to itself. The beds were in a dorm-style room, but, upon arrival, we were offered accommodations at a different location, “a friend’s house”, she said. We were so tired we just sat there, unable to make a decision. Kate and Erin thought it sounded good, I thought we were being sent to an inferior place and I didn’t know what Nina was thinking. Finally we agreed to go and lo and behold! We were given a three-bedroom villa all to ourselves along with a fellow pilgrim we had met earlier who we invited to join us. It had a washing machine and a sunny balcony from which to hang our clothes. Amazing! We walked back to Fernanda’s for a community dinner, which was great fun with lots of drinks, food and camaraderie. Out came the guitar and singing in multiple languages ensued. Because Nina (who is Danish) had made our reservation, they thought all four of us were Danes and Fernanda begged us to bust out some Danish drinking songs. Alas. After a while, as folks racked their brains for new songs to sing, I knew we were headed into the dreaded “Kumbaya” territory, so after a lovely and rousing evening, we all made our escape back home to our private villa.

Our laundry drying at the private villa during our stay near Casa Fernanda. The long table was the setting for the previous evening’s singing shenanigans, but breakfast was a more subdued affair.

How much did it cost?

In a nutshell, walking a Camino, eating with abandon, buying what you need and want, sleeping in both community and private accommodations costs about €50 per day, per person. That is really at the upper end, because it can be done for half that if you watch your pennies. We didn’t have any budgetary limitations, that’s just what we spent and that is the same as it has been for Steven and me in years past.

What really was fantastic about the financial part of our walk was an app that Erin brought to the group called “Settle Up”. Holy cow, what a great app! One person would pay for, say, dinner, then input the amount into the app. It would automatically assign 25% of the bill to each of us. (We had all agreed that no matter what anyone else ordered or bought, as long as it was a group expense, we would just split the bill four ways.) As we went along, only one person paid for each meal, or accommodation, drinks or groceries. When we opened the app, each of our names appeared in a pink bubble of different sizes. Whoever had the biggest bubble owed the most money and would then pay for the next group expense. We were all connected using the app simultaneously on our phones and we were constantly checking in. No one wanted to have the biggest bubble so we kept expenditures pretty even. In the end, Erin owed the group less than €2 each. Amazing! Using this app on our trip relieved us of a huge burden and made it all so easy. If you are ever in a group and need to track expenses, this is the app for you!

See those bubbles at the top? That’s how we knew whose turn it was to pay for the next group expense. I cannot recommend this app highly enough if you are sharing expenses in a group!

What was your daily routine?

In general, our daily routine was pretty much the same throughout the 15 days of our walk. I got up around 6:30 am, which in most cases was about half an hour earlier than everyone else. Whether or not they actually got more sleep depended on if we were in a private room or in a dorm room. In the latter, most people tend to get up and out very early. My reason for getting up earlier was so I could tape my feet. It’s what I do to avoid blisters and it is a big pain in the ass! At the end of one very long and tiring day, I very angrily told Steven during one of our phone calls that I was done with walking because I was sick to death of taping my feet. I am going to have to change shoes, or do something, because I am so over taping!! That said, I’ve never had a blister….🤔

The tape job. I hate it. Still, walking long distances day after day will cause your feet to swell, which stretches your skin. It is that thin skin that will cause me to get blisters if I don’t tape. Also, note the golfer’s rash. I get it every time, particularly in the early days of a pilgrimage. Also note, I was too lazy to take off the last of the polish on my big toes. It is not recommended to get a pedicure before walking, and especially not to get polish. It hides nail injuries, which is not a good thing when seeking treatment.

Once we were packed and ready to go, we might have breakfast if we were in a private room or apartment, but most likely we headed out to walk a bit before stopping to have coffee and first breakfast. Except Nina. That girl cannot take one step out the door until she has had a coffee, preferably two. And she could sniff out cafes like no one else! By lunchtime we had already had at least two breakfasts and some snacks, but lunch was also in the cards either along the way or soon after we checked into our place for the night.

We usually walked between 17-22 kilometers, although we had a couple of shorter days and a couple of longer ones. We had all read the Camino Portuguese was flat, but that is complete BS! We had a few good climbs and when the sun is beating down on you and you’re pouring sweat, any elevation can seem daunting. Simple things made us happy, like finding a nice place to sit in the shade by a stream, or the lady selling empanadas. Yum. Even better is finding a cafe right at the end of a difficult section. We always made time for photos and we took the long road when there was something lovely to see. No one ever complained. Haha, I’m kidding, we all complained.

The empanadas lady!

Once we arrived at our destination, we may or may not have been able to check into our accommodations. If not, we went for lunch. If so, we checked in and then went for lunch. In either case, we were driven by our search for food. After that, we had showers, did laundry and then we rested. Most of us spent time writing our daily posts for social media and uploading photos. We decided early on that we would share photos and that we could all use them without giving the other credit. So not all the photos in this post are mine. I am not the greatest photographer so I felt very lucky to have others along who not only took wonderful photos, but were willing to share!

This was the time of day when, as I like to say, we were watered, fed and laundered. Before long, it was time for dinner. I’d say this was my least favorite meal of the day, mostly because I was just too tired to enjoy it and probably still a bit full from lunch and afternoon snacks. That didn’t always stop me, of course, but there was a couple of times I stayed behind and had a Snickers bar and a banana for my dinner. I love crawling into bed after such a long day. It’s when I feel most accomplished.

There were a few nights when we just ate at the albergue. Sometimes we shopped beforehand and sometimes we ate what we had in our packs. On Easter Sunday we just had bread, butter and jam. It was the worse meal ever, because the bread was stale.

That said, my favorite time of the day is early in the morning, those moments when we prepared to step out the door and begin walking. There is just something I feel when I slip into my boots, hoist my pack onto my shoulders, unfold my sticks and take my first steps into the coolness of the morning. Steven likens it to putting on a uniform. It transforms me and I feel empowered. A pilgrimage is different for each person and believe me when I tell you there is a lot of time to think when you walk for hours, day after day. It is also a physical challenge, which to be honest is what drives me the most. I am at my strongest when I am on a pilgrimage and it’s a great feeling.

How did you feel when it was over?

Relieved. Jubilant. Accomplished, and maybe a little bit sad. On the final morning, day 15, as we prepared to walk into Santiago and claim our compostelas, we were not quite ready to embrace the end, so we stopped for lunch about a kilometer from the square. We then followed Nina to her favorite overlook for a glorious view of the cathedral. It was after 1 pm when we arrived and were met by Steven and Chris (Erin’s husband) who were waiting for us among throngs of happy pilgrims who had arrived from all directions after walking one of several Camino paths.

Four weary but happy peregrinas at the end of the trail in front of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

It’s always a relief to arrive safely, without serious injury. We all started off with doubts about whether or not our bodies were physically capable of such a challenge, so in that respect, the feeling of completing a Camino is off the charts. But there is also a feeling of “now what?”. A body in motion wants to stay in motion and the idea that we will no longer be walking with purpose can be a little depressing. I always try to spend a day or two in Santiago among fellow pilgrims to help ease myself back into normal life. It can be a bigger transition than you might imagine!

Would I walk with the group again and, what’s next?

Here we are with our hard-earned Compostelas and Certificates of Distance!

Absolutely yes, I would be thrilled to have another “4 Cheeky Chicas” adventure in my future. What adventure that might be, I have no idea. As for another Camino? Too soon!! 🙂 We will just have to wait and see what happens. Until then, enjoy more photos below, or make yourself a cup of tea and head over to YouTube to watch our journey unfold. Thanks for making it this far, and Buen Camino!


Up Next: On the road again…

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39 Comments

    1. 2chouters

      Thanks, Vern. I appreciate your sweet words more than you know. I am slowly returning to normal, getting ready to hit the road and continue our travels. Part of me is still looking back, though, reminiscing.

    2. Mary

      My daughter and I hiked from Porto to the cathedral in 2019 and I have a photo of her sitting beside the same pool at your private villa and she has one of me sitting on that same patio bench. I recall that villa as one of the nicest places we stayed. Your photo of the pool brought back memories. Especially of the large orange I tucked in my backpack the second last day of walking. We took turns carrying it until finally we left it at one of the little offering shrines. Proof positive that an extra 1/2 pound makes a huge difference when carrying your life in a backpack.

      1. 2chouters

        Hi Mary, thanks for your comment. Yes, 8 ounces is everything, lol! When I was packing I did everything I could to keep the weight of my pack low, and I found that the little things we think weight “nothing” actually add up to a lot! And isn’t it funny how much we add as we go along, like a heavy orange! 🙂

    1. 2chouters

      Steven and I are fond of saying if you want to get to know a place really well, walk it. It is amazing what we miss when we speed by in a car! Thanks for commenting and I am so glad you enjoyed the post!

    1. 2chouters

      Thank you, Joyce. Nina had some great photos and fab commentary on our trek! As for what’s coming up, some slow travel and then some exciting stuff. Watch this space!

  1. Judy Iverson

    What a fabulous trip and summary post! I’m so glad you all meshed so well together and that no one was injured along the way. Sounds perfect. Can’t wait to hear what’s next.

  2. Jorge Horácio Oliveira

    Thank you so much for sharing this post. It is an excellent addition to those that Nina wrote daily.

    I am curious to know what will follow.

    1. 2chouters

      Thanks for taking time to comment, Jorge! As for what’s next with the 4 Cheeky Chicas, I’m curious, too! 🙂 We all have individual plans taking us to places around the world over the next few months, so who knows!

  3. Wonderful!! This was a great way to present the journey – it really personalized the story with fun information. I especially love your series of hiker pics. Must be a bit surreal to have it behind you already.

    1. 2chouters

      Thank you, Jodee! I know you know what a monster of a post this one was, so I am so glad you enjoyed in exactly the way I intended it to be. Hugs to you and Bill!

  4. Liz

    Wow! What a wonderful adventure with great company! That is really a gift to you all that you melded together so well. Thanks for sharing it. Will look forward to your next adventures.

    1. 2chouters

      Thank you so much for your sweet words. We do feel quite accomplished, individually and as a group, and I hope that feeling stays with us forever.

    1. 2chouters

      My eyes are leaking!!!!! I can’t look back and not tear up, or watch the video or flip through photos. What a sap I am!! I’ve had some great experiences in my life, and this one is right up there. I am so thrilled we did it together!

  5. What a fabulous adventure, and so engaging to read about it from your very personal and entertaining perspective. It looks both challenging and joyful. Makes me think about the saying that “Good friends make the good times better and the hard times easier.” Thanks for sharing your journey with us! ❤️

    P.S. Maybe your next adventure together could be a river cruise, LOL. Something totally relaxing and indulgent.

    1. 2chouters

      “Challenging and joyful”, yes, you nailed it. That’s it exactly. I don’t know if or when we might get together again as a group, but after this experience, I’m not sure a river cruise would cut it. But you never know! 🙂

  6. I can only imagine how you must have felt all along the way and the feeling of accomplishment at the end of your long trek. What a tremendous lift! Loved seeing the pics, which told the story, too, and congrats to you all for one more amazing adventure. You rock!

    1. 2chouters

      Thank you for your kind words, Nickie. I definitely feel accomplished at the end of each day and especially at the end of the adventure. But it is kind of sad when it’s all over. 🙁

    1. 2chouters

      Hi, Trish! Yeah, I love having a large waist pack, but I’d say Giovanni was a bit of an overkill on a two-week walk like the Camino Portuguese. Last year we walked the Italian portion of the Via Francigena and I felt the large size was vital to my success. The VF has much less infrastructure so we carried more, including food. I loved having the space to carry stuff to keep the weight off my back! Under no circumstances would I take a small waist pack. I simply carry too much stuff I want to have access to as I walk.

  7. While I enjoyed reading your daily accounts on facebook, I really loved this Q&A style roundup. It’s full of helpful information, but also nice to read about your personal experiences, emotions, and the interactions of the group. I’m so glad it all worked out and you guys had such a great time and, for the most part, nice weather. Congratulations on another successful Camino!

  8. Kate

    Fantastic post Linda. I also had eye leaking reading it! It’s hard to believe we had never met until Porto, but I feel so lucky to have shared this experience with you, Nina and Erin. I can’t wait to start planning another 4 cheeky chicas adventure. xx

    1. 2chouters

      Thank you so much! It was such a joy to see our group come together, right from the beginning when we started our planning! Our lovely spreadsheet….I can’t wait to add another page to it! What will our next adventure be…hmmmmm? Before then, though, I must watch “Succession.” 🙂

  9. Pingback: Camino Portuguese – Facts, Figures and Tips – Wheeling It: Tales From a Nomadic Life

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