The Art and Beauty of Florence

Steven here. Given my recent foray into creating art, a visit to Italy, and especially a stop in Florence was perfectly timed. We were staying in Agliana at a farmhouse AirBnB and, although it wasn’t terribly convenient to get to the station (we had to negotiate speeding traffic on a road with no walking path), once on the train, it was an easy commute.

I was most excited to see the treasure trove of artworks at the Uffizi Gallery and giddy at the notion of staring up at the statue of David at the Accademia Gallery. But the city itself is just as intoxicating as the housed art. Its history is rich and closely tied to the masterpieces of sculpture and paintings. Walking down narrow streets, passing narrower alleys on either side, I was aware of the sun trying to find its way through abundant hanging laundry. Tiny cars and motorbikes sped by paying little attention to crossing pedestrians. Then I finally turned a corner to reveal the Arno river, completely still, reflecting multicolored historic architecture. It was hard to imagine which ones were still occupied. Some looked renovated while others looked abandoned but each was beautiful in its own way.

The city has a unique energy. Modern Florence seems to comfortably coexist with historic Florence. COVID no doubt has affected the number of tourists but it still felt like it was flourishing. People from all walks of life from teenagers to nonagenarians went about their business. Although I was a foreigner, it just felt comfortable to be there. Neither Linda nor I like to stay in cities for any length of time but we could feel the pull of Florence much more than anywhere else.

When I reached the Uffizi, it was my second time. I first went with Linda and it was a good introduction to the collection but there was far too much to see. I made note of some paintings I wanted to take the time to study. Also, for my solo visit, I was much more attuned to the layout of the gallery which can be quite confusing initially.

In general, I try to avoid the “greatest hits” of art but then I find I can’t resist. There is a reason why they are deemed the greatest paintings ever created. Anyway, I would be doing myself a disservice if I didn’t go see them, if only for just a few minutes.

The Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli

Back in the days when I was training to be a graphic designer, the software tool of choice was Adobe Illustrator. On the splash screen was an image of a woman’s face. I was enthralled with it every time I launched the program. I did a little research and found out it was part of a famous painting called the Birth of Venus. Since then, I’ve gazed at reproductions of the painting and am constantly amazed at how contemporary it looks even though it was painted around 1485. So this was one of those greatest hits paintings that was a must-see for me and it was hanging on one of the walls right there in the Uffizi!

I first saw it the day Linda and I visited together. When we entered the gallery where Botticelli’s masterpiece hung, I wasn’t sure how big it was but I hoped it would be large enough to impress me. When I first saw the Mona Lisa in the Louvre, for instance, it was positively tiny! For my solo trip to the Uffizi, I got up close and personal with the (thankfully) large painting. I studied it for a good 15 minutes which annoyed some of the tourists trying to get selfies. I noticed how perfect it was and I also noticed how imperfect it was. By today’s standards, with our vast knowledge of anatomy, the proportions are completely off and Venus herself has some seriously dirty feet. What’s up with that? I guess this is to be expected seeing as she was walking around without footwear. Still, I expected it to be perfect and it was kind of thrilling to see that it wasn’t. I felt like I could see it through the artist’s eyes and it made me want to draw or paint something right there! It is a stunning piece of art and it surpassed all of my expectations. I could have left the gallery at that moment and been happy but there was more to come.

Adoration of the Magi (San Donato in Scopeto)

Of course I wanted to see anything that Leonardo da Vinci created. There were only a few samples of his work on display while I was there but the one that drew me in the most was actually an unfinished work called the Adoration of the Magi. In July 1481, Leonardo received a commission from the Augustinian monks to paint a panel for the high altar in the church of San Donato in Scopeto, just outside Florence’s city walls. He estimated it would take 30 months to complete but a couple of months into the work, he left Florence for Milan and never returned. The monks waited in vain until they commissioned another version of the piece by Filippino Lippi.

It wasn’t this story that fascinated me, no, it was the unfinished nature of the gigantic painting. It was like the curtains had been pulled back on the wizard. What was revealed was Leonardo’s method, his process to create these great wonders. As an ever-learning artist myself, I was practically drooling over this kind of insight. I could see figures half drawn, half painted, ideas that had been scratched out in dark corners. All this was juxtaposed with more rendered figures. The painting was not getting as much attention from the tourist throng so I was able to spend some time standing right in front of it, just contemplating its brilliance.

Portrait of Eleonora di Toledo with her son Giovanni by Bronzino

While we were walking through the various galleries of the Uffizi, Linda and I were commenting on the strange looking babies in paintings from the 1400s and before. If Jesus wasn’t looking like a miniature adult in the cradle, he was one ugly baby sitting in Mary’s lap. He wasn’t alone, of course, many babies and adults were depicted as almost grotesque in the day. I can safely say that’s a trend that will never return. So then we came across this stunning portrait of the Duchess of Florence and her son by the great court portrait artist for the Medici, Bronzino. It was lovingly painted in painstaking detail, especially the fabric of the dress. She is also beautifully proportioned as is her son. They look like humans we would actually encounter in the present day. I think the real magic of this work is that, as beautiful as the colors and detail of the clothing are, ultimately it is about the two people and their expressions and the strong presence they evoke inside the frame. With that being said, I still wanted to reach out and touch that fabric!

Medusa by Caravaggio

Okay, I’m going to admit that I thought Medusa was a man but it turns out that she was, in fact, a woman. Am I alone here? Not only was she a woman but she had bronze hands and golden wings and countless venomous snakes on her head in place of her own hair. Now I don’t know about you but I found taking care of a single cat to be a challenge so kudos to her for taking on that kind of responsibility. Anyway, I think part of my gender confusion came from the fact that this painting by Caravaggio depicts the artist’s own face in place of Medusa’s. He painted this with the intention of showing his defiance of Medusa’s gaze. Although the head is severed, so there’s that, but it appears conscious so I’m not totally sure what he was going for. Either way, it is quite striking to see in person. It is actually round and looks like it is painted on some kind of shield.

Self Portrait by Rembrandt

Rembrandt is one of my favorite artists and I was really excited to see a painting of his in person. It’s not the first time I’ve seen his work, there is an abundance of his paintings at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Frick Collection in New York. I visited both of these museums regularly when I lived in the city. He has influenced so many visual mediums over the years, from film to photography. There is even a term called “Rembrandt Lighting” in photography which is used for portraiture. His later work, this one being an example, is much more expressive with big bold strokes almost bordering on Impressionism. If you were to look at it close up, it would appear as a big mess of paint splotches but stand back and it is a beautifully rendered painting of the man himself. This work got my creative juices flowing to attempt something in a similar vein.

Holy Family (Doni Tondo) by Michelangelo

Michelangelo needs no introduction but it is quite striking to be in the presence of his mastery. This is another painting that looks like it could have been completed yesterday. The pigment has retained its glow and vibrancy in a way almost unimaginable when you consider this painting dates back to 1668. That’s 119 years before the Constitution was written!! The piece also represents a newfound knowledge of anatomy brought on by major advancements in science at the time. You only need to compare what came before this painting to truly appreciate the skill and awareness Michelangelo had of the underlying muscle and bone structure of the human body. It reminded me that I need to study anatomy to be a better artist.

David by Michelangelo

Another iconic image I was aware of for as long as I can remember is the statue of David by Michelangelo. It was somewhat scandalous to see it when I was a kid in Ireland. I think it may have been regarded as porn. Keep in mind that my idea of porn when I was young was a medical book with anatomical drawings. That was about all I could get my hands on.

As I matured and became interested in art, one of the sculptures that came up again and again as a testament to the incredible skills of Michelangelo was David. There are so many stories surrounding this sculpture that I would be here all day so I’ll just concentrate on my own reaction to it.

Linda and I bought tickets in advance for the Accademia Gallery. Linda had seen it before but it was my first time so I had the same kind of anticipation as mentioned earlier with the Birth of Venus. The place was packed (although still probably not as packed as back in non-COVID times). At the end of the long gallery, glowing and massive stood David. We zigzagged our way down through the crowd and stood below the 17 foot marble marvel. The artist in me began scanning and studying the statue. I was sure the hands were out of proportion. They looked too big. The proportions, according to Michelangelo, are that of an ideal man. Either way it is just breathtaking to see. I was able to enjoy the sculpture without being inspired to take up sculpting (much to Linda’s relief).

The perceived center of Florence is undoubtedly the Florence Cathedral, otherwise known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Completed in 1436, it is a feast for the eyes. The exterior is faced with marble in various shades of green and pink, bordered by white, and has an elaborate 19th-century Gothic Revival façade. It dominates the huge square it occupies. Each section recedes into another until it seems like its depth is never-ending. We toyed with the idea of going to the top of the dome but the crowds were a little off-putting.

One of the amazing things about standing there looking at the dome, in particular, is that when I was in the Uffizi, some of the paintings dating back to the 15th century had the exact same cathedral in the background! It just gives a great sense of perspective about the history of the city. I felt insignificant in its presence and mesmerized by the mechanical feat of its construction.

Florence was everything I hoped it would be (are you seeing a theme here?). Of all the cities we have visited, we would most likely return here and maybe spend more time exploring. It’s just not possible to do it all in a few days. It was a personal thrill and hugely inspirational for me to be in the presence of some of the greatest art ever created. It is nice to see that, for all the destruction we humans can cause in the world, we are also capable of making supremely beautiful things. Yes, we will most definitely be back.

And just before I go, I’ll include one of my own modest paintings. This is a simple chair but the way it’s spot lit makes it feel like something is about to happen. I also deliberately made the background a little mysterious. I think most of the story of this picture is what is not shown and I like that idea. I also like the rough strokes and the imperfection of the chair itself. If you would like to keep up with my art, you can follow me on my Visual Art Facebook Page here.

Up Next: Lucca, Siena and Pisa.

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