We like to talk about how big Norway is from the tippy top to the south end, and it is big, but not like you’d think. In fact, the distance from Nordkapp to the south of Norway is only about 1,550 miles. It is 1,000 kilometers, or about 620 miles further to drive from Seattle to Fairbanks in Alaska. And here’s the thing that really blew my mind: the U.S. is nearly thirty times larger than Norway. Thirty times! Can you even believe that?
But here’s where Norway shines: coastline and islands. Norway has the third longest coastline in the world, where the U.S. comes in 8th. Another category where Norway beats the pants off the U.S. is the number of islands. Norway has over a quarter of a million, making it the second most in the world. The U.S. has a measly 18,617 making it, once again, 8th in the world.
Why am I telling you all this? I don’t know, I thought it was interesting. That, and the Norwegian Tourist Board has named several routes that pass through a few of these islands as “must see” and therefore we felt somewhat compelled to drive them, so drive them we did!
Leaving Tromsø we drove for over an hour to reach the other side of Kvaløya, one of the islands that is part of the Tromsø municipality. The drive was stunning, like driving through the Scottish highlands. There were streams and beautiful lakes and so many places to wild camp it was overwhelming. If we were the puttering kind, we could have stayed up there for weeks! Maybe then we’d see one of Norway’s very elusive moose.
We arrived in Brensholmen and got in line for the ferry. Our destination on this day was the island of Senja, where we would drive another of Norway’s famously scenic tourist routes. We had plenty of time before the ferry to whip up some eggs and Rosti for breakfast. It was a gloriously sunny day so the fjord was blue and calm. Ferries may add a bit of time to our trip, but the scenery can’t be beat.
Once we arrived in Botnhamn we set off on the tourist route with our first stop being Husøy. We had no idea what the big deal was about Husøy and we very nearly skipped it, but wow! What a stunning little town this turned out to be. We went over a mountain pass and as we descended we could see the town surrounded by the stunning blue water and towering sea cliffs. I’m not sure these photos do it justice, but we both had our jaws dropped in this place.
From Husøy we continued along the coastal route, stopping around every bend because there was always something stunning to see and photograph. The roads, even major highways, can be skinny, two lane jobbers that often narrow at bridges and other points. So as the driver, I was tasked with parking Bijou on a sliver of a turn out while Steven’s job was to run outside, take a photograph, then run back in and get belted in so I could take off again before we created a traffic jam. Just around the bend we’d do it again. Steven was sweating by the time we finally stopped to take a break, he was getting quite the workout.
We stayed along the coast and on occasion drove into villages along the way. Nearly all of them offered some kind of services for motorhomes. In one town there was a free parking area with fresh water, along with grey and black water disposals. No electricity, but honestly, with such a gorgeous view of the fjord right out your window, who needs it? We didn’t stay because it was just too early in the day, but we sure thought about it. And again the next day, but our plans shifted dramatically so we carried on.
We ended our first day on Senja at a wilding spot overlooking a bridge next to a fjord. Have you figured out yet that Norway has a ton of fjords? Yeah, that’s where that third longest coastline in the world comes in. Plenty of room at the fjord for everyone!
We had a quiet night and another sunny morning. We decided we would drive south on the island to see what there was to see. The answer is absolutely nothing. We drove the entire island and have one photo to show for our efforts. We ended up retracing our drive along the tourist route from the previous day, again pondering an overnight at the spot in Mefjiordaever with the services, but we decided since we’d drive the tourist route twice, we might as well move on to Andøya, another island with a tourist route.
Most of the ferries are part of Norway’s transportation system, but there are a few that are privately run. The ferry from Gryllfjorden to Andenes is one of those. It’s an hour-long trip and it is very popular with both tourists and locals alike, and there is no way to make a reservation to make sure you can get on the ferry.
Once we made our decision to go, we made a beeline for Gryllfjorden whizzing along at a speedy 30-40 miles per hour to see if we could make the 3 pm ferry. It’s really impossible to get anywhere very fast, as the speed limit in Norway is typically about 50mph. We arrived with an hour to spare only to find all six lanes completely full and another line of cars stretched all the way down main street. Oh well, we figured we’d just move up and sit in line and take the 7 pm.
Well, lo and behold, they got us all on that ferry, which turned out to be a good thing, because the 7 pm ferry was cancelled due to high winds. Our trip was a doozy. We got tossed around so much Steven had to stay on the top deck with his eyes firmly planted on the horizon. Fortunately, I do not suffer from seasickness so I just wandered about the ship.
By the time we reached our destination the wind was howling. We tucked into a free parking lot with a few other rigs, for once, happy to have one on each side of us to provide a buffer from the winds. Funny enough, we both slept like logs.
The following morning we made a stop at a grocery store, then moved just a couple of kilometers to a full-service campsite where made ourselves right at home. Happy days!
Steven has been sharing his drawings as we travel in real time, so on this particular section of travel he focused mainly on specific studies rather than a completed piece. But stay tuned, because in the next post, he will share one of his favorites, someone I think you all will recognize! In the meantime, if you would like to keep up with Steven’s artwork, you can follow his Visual Art page on Facebook here.
UP NEXT: The Lofoten Islands
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Wow. Stunning.
Stunning pics + unbelievable scenery— what a journey.we have quite a few “ halo wits” locally in Canada used by folks having difficulty walking-they’re becoming quite popular given our climate. Looking forward to your next terrific post.Enjoy!
We saw one of those little half wit cars in Switzerland made by Porsche! The grocery store clerk said the lady drives it everywhere and said it cost $25k! Holy cow, I’d want the full deal for that amount. 🙂
Maybe that’s for a 2-pack.
Laurie, LOL. We need twin half wits so together we can be a full wit. 🙂
I hope you have this on your list soon, I know you will love it!
Gorgeous! Your photos of the fjords and mountains are stunning! We love ferry crossings, too…and have made plenty of breakfasts in line waiting for the ferry to the San Juan Islands. It always feels so luxurious to have our roadside cafe with us!
In answer to your question from your previous post, yes we do miss the Pacific Northwest. But mostly in the summer. And we definitely don’t miss the wildfires plaguing so much of the region. 🙁
It just seems to be the thing to do, make breakfast, board the ferry. Steven and I have only camped in the San Juans once, years and years ago, in a tent. It was the most pathetic time ever, because we were on a diet, something like Medifast where all the meals were “just add water” packages. We were starving, so we cooked up about five meals worth of chili. Then we were just depressed, so we went to the camp store and bought candy bars, wine and a pack of smokes. LOL, when we blow it, we reeeealy blow it! 🙂
That sounds awful 😂😂
Life is too short for diets and deprivation…speaking from experience…
Your pictures make me want to replicate the Norway part of your trip. I wonder if RV rentals are something possible over there? I love RV travel in the states but that scenery! Wow! Thanks for sharing.
Yes! We have seen a ton of rental vans in Norway. I can only imagine the high cost, but you never know, you might find a good deal! It is such an easy country to RV in, I’d do it again and again!
We figure we may as well spend our savings now while we can still travel! I may even have talked my husband into this!
Do it! 🙂 If you rent something, let me know and I can give you lots of tips! 🙂
Half Wit. Love it! Thanks for so many photos of clean air. 🙂
It sounds like you guys are gasping for fresh air! I hope the rain and snow comes early this year to help put out those fires. How awful it must be to step outside and breath smoke!
Wow , stunning photos . It does look like one of the most beautiful parts of this plant. Oh by the way I learned some thing the other day about Norway that you had brought up . 54 % of the new cars purchased last year in Norway were electric vehicles .
Yeah, that’s a lot of electric cars, right? And there are places all over where one can recharge. Most of them Tesla, because it seems to us that there are a ton of them on the road. We saw a guy in his Tesla pulling his camping trailer!
We MUST get to Norway before we’re planted in the earth! Look at all that lovely land and fresh air. (so smoky here) And I have to say, that as owners of a Smart car (which we tow behind our “Tergel” motor home), we’d love to tow a “half wit” behind our Smartie. What a procession that would make!
LOL, those little “Half Wits” are fairly expensive. But yes, you need to get to Norway while it’s still fresh and beautiful. Who knows what the future holds. As of today, we are still as far north as Valdez, but tomorrow we head south! 🙂
We have a dealership for those little Half Wits in our Ontario town. He’s in an area where there are a lot of condos and apartments for seniors. I think he has a good customer base!
I think they are adorable and I’d have one just for fun! I can see how they might be loads of fun for those who have difficulty walking, it must be so freeing!
You should be on the tourist board for Norway!! I’m so ready to be there right now 🙂 Stunning views from the ferries, although our last time we got a little green so I don’t envy Steven his reaction. The drama of the evening arrival to shore is so cool!
Most of the photos you are seeing are from our iPhones. Steven hasn’t had time to process the photos he’s taken with his big camera. He will be doing a photo blog later, so prepare to be stunned. Norway doesn’t even need a tourist board. 🙂
Yeah, thanks for that link! We’ve been keeping our eye on this one http://www.aurora-service.eu/ I doubt we have much of a chance of seeing them, but you never know!
Stunning views. Thank you. First time commenting.💕
Thank you for taking time to comment! We appreciate knowing who’s following along!
Hi Linda, hi Steven,
I was really sick for a week, now it works again and I enjoy your blog again. An interesting blog about this impressively beautiful country. I drove it al the way only up to Bergen an still love to remember.
I hope you are fine.
Barbara